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ECONOMY ANVIL
PRUNERS
With their special plastic stop
("anvil"), anvil
pruners cut Framespace®
quickly, easily and safely without crushing it. Exact
style/color may vary.
$7.95/ea.
SCROLL
DOWN OR CLICK HERE FOR PRO-GRADE ANVIL PRUNERS |
WHETSTONES
It is recommended and always good
practice to take a few seconds and swipe the edges of the glass slightly
before you clean it or apply spacers. This makes it quicker, easier and
safer to attach Framespace®
spacers.
$2.95/ea.
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After swiping and cleaning the glass (See above), attach a small piece
of Framespace®
to one corner of the glass to use as a gauge for spacing the first side.
(See Below). Attach the first side against the gauge piece and cut the
other end flush with the edge of the glass as shown. Continue around the
other three sides of the glass in the same manner. If you use sharp
anvil pruners or fillet shears, the Framespace®
won't crush and you'll get a nice clean cut.
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PRO-GRADE ANVIL PRUNERS
CLICK IMAGE TO
ENLARGE
This
is a versatile tool of the highest quality. The pro-grade
anvil pruner has spring-loaded handles, an adjustable locking lever
and molded ergonomic grips over its steel handles. The forged
steel blade and die-cast aluminum "anvil" stop are
replaceable.
CLICK
PRICES TO ORDER
pro-grade anvil pruner (shown above): $22.95/ea.
replacement blades: $16.39/ea.,
3 blades for $37.95
 replacement
straight anvil: $9.95
SCROLL TO TOP OF PAGE OR CLICK HERE
FOR "ECONOMY" ANVIL PRUNERS
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FOR THOSE WHO PREFER MITRE CUTS:
CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE
The recommended tool for cutting miters on: Framespace, fillets and
plastic channel. A Real Time Saver! Consists of pro-grade
anvil pruner (shown at left) plus interchangeable die-cast aluminum miter anvil.
Allen wrench required.
CLICK
PRICES TO ORDER
"The Wizard" fillet miter cutter:
$34.95/ea.
 replacement miter anvil: $11.95
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Tips and Ideas for
using Framespace®
and Econospace®
in all types of
picture framing situations.
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Before you clean the glass...
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Framespace: Although
standard 1/8" frame/glass allowance will work, it is recommended to
minimize this allowance to prevent the glass from shifting so much in
the frame. Remember that the spacers will shift with the glass and will
become more visible under the lip of the frame.
Econospace: A 1/32" or
at most a 1/16"allowance is recommended to keep the spacer from
shifting too far.
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It is recommended and
always good practice to take a few seconds and swipe (seam or bevel the
edges of) the glass slightly before you clean it or apply spacers. This
will make it much easier and safer to apply Framespace and with Econospace
it will help keep the glass from chipping in metal frames. Use a
whetstone, a hand seamer, or a smooth river rock. Just a couple of light
strokes is all it takes.
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FrameSpace Cuts easily with anvil pruners
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Cutting FrameSpace
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After swiping and cleaning
the glass (See above), attach a small piece of Framespace to one corner of
the glass to use as a gauge for spacing the first side. (See Below).
Attach the first side against the gauge piece and cut the other end flush
with the edge of the glass as shown. Continue around the other three sides
of the glass in the same manner. If you use sharp anvil pruners or fillet
shears, the Framespace won't crush and you'll get a nice clean cut.
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Cutting Econospace
Since you can't rely on the
adhesive for permanence, it is recommended to either miter or at least
support the ends of the top piece by applying the Econospace to the glass
as shown below.
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Adhere Econospace to the glass, not to the
frame.
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 Adhere
the Econospace flush with and to the edge of the glass rather than to the
frame to insure the best possible bond and maximum engagement over the
face of the art or decorative backing as shown above. The glass is the
best surface for bond permanence. Do not "Center" the glass in
the frame by applying theEconospace half on and half off the glass. The
weight of the glass will shear the adhesive on the bottom spacer and the
top spacer will only be held on by half the adhesive. It will sag.
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Framespace & Econospace may be stacked
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Framespace can be stacked as shown to achieve
some very unique and effective frame jobs.
All Econospace can be
stacked as shown above. You may find it less expensive, easier, and more
attractive to use Framespace in one of the larger sizes.
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Fitting the frame
Stack up the backing, the
art, and glass (with the spacers attached) face up on your fitting table.
Check for dust and critters. In a wood frame, place the frame down over
the entire package then flip it over and fit as usual. In a metal frame,
join three sides then slide the whole package in face up. Flip it over and
install the fourth side.
Caution!
When framing unmounted paper art, it is
not advisable to cover the edge of the art with the spacer as even slight
pressure against the art will cause it to buckle! The art will expand and
contract with changes in humidity and it must be allowed to move freely in
the frame to prevent buckling. The art may also be abraded by the spacer
rubbing on the face of the art. A more appropriate method would be to
"Float" the art as shown below.
In metal frames, instead of
using spring clips, bond strips of foam board or mat board to the edge of
the backing to almost fill up the space. If they are tight the art and the
backing will buckle! (See below).
In
wood frames, don't apply any pressure when installing diamond points, etc.
Leave the entire package a little loose to prevent the art and backing
from buckling. (See below)
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This
shows a sea shell glued atop a small pedestal of foam-core which gives the
shell an interesting special look rather than just being glued down to the
backing. We have added a strip of the same color mat board in the space
behind the 3 Clear. Hold the mat
strip into the back of the Framespace with a few of pieces of tape while
cutting the Framespace to fit the glass. Cut through the mat strip and
Framespace at the same time. |
The
sea horses are framed using two layers of glass with
3 on each layer. The sea horses are glued to the second layer of glass
with a little clear silicone glue. (Silicone glue is available in your
grocery store.) This method can be used effectively for arrowheads,
butterflies, dried flowers, etc. |
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This method enhances the
deckled edge and the character of hand-made paper. The print was hinged to
a pedestal of foam-core (1 inch smaller all around than the paper) to give
a floating effect. 3 Clear was used
so that the color of the frame showed through instead of adding another
color.
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The coin trick is done with
two layers of glass and a mirror. The top layer of glass has Framespace 1
Black. The second layer has Framespace 3 Black. The coins are glued to the
second layer of glass with silicone glue. (See detailed instructions
below.) This trick works well with paper currency, playing cards, post
cards, or any object that has an interesting back side. You can use two
layers of Framespace 3 if the object is thicker than will fit with regular
Framespace 1.
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The Framespace Coin Trick
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1. Cut two pieces of SSB
glass, one mirror, and one backing board all the same size with 3/32 inch
frame allowance.
2. Clean the Mirror and
both sides of both pieces of glass and set aside to gather dust.
3. Clean the frame rabbet
and maybe even hit it with a light coat of matte spray if it looks like it
will be flaky.
4. Lay out the coins on
the backing board to determine exact spacing. Outline the coins with a
pencil to make bulls eyes. Lay one of the pieces of glass on it and set it
aside for more dust collection.
5. Clean and polish both
sides of the coins as necessary. Remember that silicone glue will not
stick to finger oils.
6. Make a small handle out of masking tape like this:
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Then stick it lightly to
the front of the coin like this: 
Line the handle up with some prominent feature on the coin like
"Top."
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7.
Apply an almost continuous string of tiny beads of silicone to the back of
the coin on just the very edge. Be careful here and remove any big globs
because they will show very nicely in the mirror. Hold the coin just
slightly above the glass and drop it over the bulls eye. Don't touch
it! If you move it even a little bit the glue will smear and show. The
weight of the coin is enough to flatten the glue. Wait at least three
hours before handling the glass. After the glue has cured, hold the coin
down with tweezers, or something similar, when you remove the tape handle.
Wait until tomorrow to deliver the frame job to let the glue finish
curing.
8. Attach regular
FRAMESPACE 1 to the top piece of glass and FRAMESPACE 3 or 5 on the glass
with the coin on it. Stack both up on the mirror and backing. (See
cross-section diagram above.) Chase dust for a while and set the frame
down over the glass and spacer assembly. Take it all apart, remove the
last of the dust and try it again. Fit and hang as a usual frame job.
NOTE:
Advise your customer that you are going to use silicone glue on the coin.
It is completely removable with lacquer thinner but some collectors will
not stand for glue on their coins. Find another method for framing their
coins. Also warn them that if they look closely they're liable to see some
glue in the mirror. Show them what a nice job you did on the sample frame
and explain how tricky a job it is. Cover yourself.
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This may be the answer to
the frame job that requires a piece of glass both front and back while
still allowing the necessary air-space for conservation grade framing and
keeping art from buckling. The Framespace is attached to
the BACK piece of glass, the art is hinged with T-hinges to the back
glass. After the frame is completely together and squeaky clean, remove
one side of the frame at a time - face down - and apply a small bead of
silicone glue to the edge of the Framespace. Put the
frame piece back on, take off the next side, glue, etc.Our new FS
1/4" Double will make this type of job very quick and easy. It also
seals the whole glass and art package (except at the very corners) from
intrusion of dust and critters. In wood frames cut the allowance tight and
use a small bead of clear hot melt glue all around the back to hold the
whole package in.
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This shows a very popular
way of framing needle art. It's usually much easier to stretch over
polyester quilt batting or foam than to stretch "hard" over
stretcher bars or board. Cut the glass the same size as the finished
stretch job and stack the glass with the Framespace
attached onto the piece. Check for dust then slide into a metal frame or
drop a wood frame over it and you're done.
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Have questions about
installing or ordering Framespace®
framing spacers? Email sales@ArtRight.com
for answers.
images & content © Frametek, Inc.
and ArtRight.com
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